ML1 - Hammond Adaptor
042513 - Since the ML1's release over a year ago we have produced about a dozen of them. Each one has been made with a number of options and variations to suit the customer. That said, I REALLY need to update this page. We have hundreds of pictures taken of the ML1 units we have delivered and I want to get them resized and uploaded onto this webpage so that you may see what we can do with the ML1 format. In the time we've been producing the ML1 we've even released the ML2, which isn't even acknowleged on this page.
So if you are interested in having us build you a line-out retrofit module for your vintage Hammond M3 organ please contact us via email or telephone so we may discuss what configuration will best suit your own situation.
Also know that we offer the ATTENUA module for owners of vintage Hammond console organs (A100, B3, C3) that provide line-out adaptors, signal attenuators, overdrive circuits, and FX-loops.
The Farndurk ML1 Line Output Adaptor for vintage Hammond M3-M100-L100 series spinet tonewheel organs.
040912: I've just finished up the "proof of concept prototype" of the ML1 over Easter Weekend. Previously known as the M3OA, it was a sortof "built to order" gizmo, but I've finally got it worked out to a standardized form. The below texts were written to give you a clear explanation of how the all new ML1 is configured. The attached pictures were leftovers from the "old" M3OA product descriptions, but I left them to give you a very ~general~ idea of what it looks like. There are some inconsistancies with the provided pictures and the finalized ML1 ... such as all the output jacks are now on the "right side" .. like where the two speaker jacks are in the below pics. The toggle switches are now mounted on the top cover instead of the front. There is also a knob added now as well. So the provided pics are a bit outdated, but at least they give you ~some~ idea as to the size of the chassis we use and ~sorta-kinda~ what it looks like. The production ML1 also has quite permanent descriptive graphics handstamped into the cover plate that will never ever wear off or become unreadable over time, just like the other designs we offer throughout the entire Farndurk linup. So .. here we go then! Check back soon ... this page will be fine tuned and pictures of a production ML1 will be added very soon. Of course if you have ANY questions just email me, and I'll do my best to give you the answers you need. Thanks tons, folks! Brian ....
The Hammond M3 (aka "Baby B"), the M100, and the L100 spinets:
The Hammond M3-M100-L100 spinets are becoming more and more popular these days. They can be bought fairly inexpesively .. even "free" if you know how to find them. From here forward I'll refer to these three spinet series as the "M/Ls". I have a spinet myself, a 1955 M3 I call "Morticia" after Morticia Addams from the Addams Family TV series. Sexy - Gothic - Cool!
The need ...
The Hammond M3-M100-L100 series spinets have an internal speaker system and a power amplifier which produces only about 11 watts of power (it always "goes to eleven!" haahaa!). Often times folks want to add an additional "line out" (otherwise known as a "1/4 inch connector") to the M/L spinets to provide a way to connect it to outside amplification equipment such as guitar-type fx-pedals and a guitar amp, or pro-type rack gear, or a mixer/PA system, or to be able to do direct-connect recording into a digital audio interface. In other instances, many people wish to do away with the stock Hammond internal speaker setup and not have the internal speaker(s) in the rig at all. We're able to provide the Hammond M/L series player with any or all of these options. To get this done the spinet has to have some sort of a breakout box used to provide a "line-out". We can easily address these issues and more, with very simple changes made to your precious tonewheel Hammond. By the way, all of the changes are 100% totally and completely reversable, and rather easily done so as well.
Presenting the Farndurk ML1 output adaptor for Hammond M3-M100-L100 series spinet tonewheel organs.
The ML1 was developed to address many needs and all of the testing and R&D was done on my own precious 1955 Hammond M3. The ML1 is a culmination of design elements that I've used in creating many of these output adaptors for customers for years. It represents all of the most asked for features and abilities that Hammond M/L series spinet owners have requested over that time. It's been carefully honed to the "nth degree" and the amplifier protection schemes and systems have been time tested and proven quite thoroughly.
Here's a few optional features available for the ML1 output adaptor:
- "SPKR1" speaker jack: This is pretty much a direct amplifier output. It allows the use of any passive speaker whether it's the stock Hammond spinet speaker(s) in the organ or some other 8ohm speaker setup (such as a single 8ohm speaker or two 16ohm speakers wired for 8ohm impedance). Plugging a 1/4" speaker cord into this jack disables the ML1's internal amplifier dead-load (aka "AUTO-LOAD") that protects the stock M3 amplifier from operating without some work to do.
- "SPKR2" speaker jack: Same as "SPKR1", it's just a second jack for another outboard speaker. It operates the exact same way that "SPKR1" does.
- "SPKR 1-2" Toggle Switch: This is a toggle switch that allows only ONE of the two "SPKR" jacks to be "live" at any one time. This is another protection feature for the stock Hammond spinet amplifer. With only one SPKR jack available at once, there is no way that an improper set of speaker loads is placed on the amp. For instance, if both SPKR jacks were live simultaneously, a person could plug two 8 ohm speakers in at once ... thereby putting an approximate 4.4 ohm load on the amplifier and overtaxing the heck out of it. This "SPKR 1-2" toggle prevents that from happening.
- INTERNAL AUTO-LOAD: This is an invisible feature of the ML1 that insures the stock Hammond spinet amplifier always has a protective load placed on the output transformer of the power amp. This is the "dummy load" that is so popularly spoken of at the University of Webzz. This amplifier loading feature is 100% automatic. If either one of the "SPKR' jacks is being used the AUTO-LOAD automatically drops out so there is not an overloading condition placed upon the stock Hammond spinet power amp. Once both "SPKR" jacks are unused (that is to say there must be nothing plugged into EITHER "SPKR" jack .. both "SPKR" jacks must be unoccupied) the AUTO-LOAD automatically applies an exact and perfect idling load on the stock Hammond spinet power amp. The load is set to provide an outstanding line-out tone .. no added bass, no reduced highs, no funky "coloring of sound" happens because the AUTO-LOAD is a carefully designed circuit that applies a just-righty and well proven type of resistance on the stock Hammond spinet power amp. Many "dummy load" solutions published out there in webzz-ville are not designed very well and the line-out signal kinda stinks. They make the organ sound muddy or too boomy, top end suffers, and the Hammond's wonderful voice is stifled and muted sounding. Not so with AUTO-LOAD. Fully automatic - wonderful line-out tone - and peace of mind knowing that your precious Hammond spinet is protected at all times no matter what you've connected to it or which way you decide to get sound out of it.
- "LINE" out jack: This is just exactly what it sounds like ... a line out jack. It is available simultaneously with the "SPKR" matrix so you can have a passive speaker being driven by the stock Hammond M3-M100-L100 amplifier AND have a line-out signal going to a mixer board or guitar amp or ??? at the same time. The "LINE" out jack is a 1/4 inch Tip-Sleeve ("TS" .. aka "mono") jack that provides an unbalanced line-level audio signal suitable for direct connection into an audio interface, or direct connection to a guitar amp, or direct connection to a mixer board/PA system .. etc. If you require a BALANCED OUTPUT simply use a passive "DI" plugged in to the "LINE" out jack and you're all set to go!
- "HI-LO" line level selector switch: This is a toggle switch that selects what signal level the "LINE" out jack provides. In the "HI" position a +4dbv (aka "pro level") unbalanced signal is available at the "LINE" out jack. This is great for connecting your Hammond M/L directly to a mixer/PA, or perhaps rack-type FX, or an audio interface for direct computer recording. In the "LO" position a -10dbv (aka "consumer level") unbalanced signal is available at the "LINE" out jack. This way you are able to use your Hammond M/L with anything from a home stereo system (great for headphone playing!), or a guitar amp, or guitar-type FX pedals.
- "TRIM" knob: This is a volume knob of sorts. It provides ~approximately~ 4-to-5dbv of "sweep" (2 or so dbv of additional volume, and 2 or so dbv of less volume) to sortof dial-in the output level of the "LINE" out jack signal. This knob works with either "HI" or "LO" output levels. It's just a bit of trim to allow you to adjust the output a little bit to fine tune the signal level. Simple enough. :) This knob has NO AFFECT on the "SPKR" jack levels. It only affects the "LINE" level signals.
- "RX" remote control port: This is a 1/4 inch TRS (tip/ring/sleeve) jack that provides a place to plug in a remote control for the "HI-LO" line out level selector switch, and the "TRIM" control as well. This way if you want I can build up some little switch/knob setup that is closer to the keyboards. The remote device could only have a "TRIM" knob if you like, or it can have just the "HI-LO" switch if you like .. or it can have both the "TRIM" knob and the "HI-LO" switch if you like. This port simply allows access to those two circuits so that if .. sometime in the future .. you wish to add a remote control of sorts the means to do so is available right there at this "RX" jack. It is a switching jack so if nothing is plugged in to it, it's existance is 100% invisible.
The Field Coil AUTO-LOAD option: If your Hammond M3 is equipped with a "four wire speaker" ... that is to say if it has a field coil circuit and an audio signal circuit, I can provide a properly designed AUTO-LOAD circuit within the ML1 just for the field coil circuit in the stock Hammond M3 power amp. It is no more difficult to connect-up than connecting the two audio leads the ML1 uses normally ... it's just two more wires that need to be connected to the ML1. Soldering them is best but the wire nuts will also work. This is essentially a "four wire speaker elimination kit" that is ONLY necessary if your Hammond M3 has the four-wire speaker setup (like my own 1955 M3 does). There is an additional upcharge for this option.
So there's the finalized ML1 output adaptor for the Hammond M3-M100-L100 spinet tonewheel organ. I'm still working out some simplified installation methods for those that do not possess a soldering pen or access to one. Using high quality "wire nuts" seems to be the first alternative choice to soldering at this point. They'll be provided free with a few other installation goodies that come free with the M3OA (like some solder, zip ties, some spiral loom, mounting screws that fit in the four predrilled mounting holes in the bottom of the ML1, heat shrink tubing).
The ML1 comes with insanely clear and concise installation instructions. I'll also be posting a picture-laden installation paqe here in the website as well. I make myself available for telephone conversations and/or email help to get you through the installation procedure as well. It's only a simple matter of cutting two speaker wires, connecting up to two leads coming from the rear of the ML1 .. and playing your organ! Of course if you require the optional Field Coil Load modification then there are two more wires that connect-up just as easily. Everything is clearly marked, and easy to do.
NEW PICTURES COMING OH-SO SOON!!!
(below) I've sold a good number of these so pics of the ML1 will be posted very soon! As with any Farndurk gear the ML1 is available in all the very same finishes that I offer for all of my designs. Our limited Lifetime Warranty applies as well. For now here's a picture of the previously available "built to order" M3OA (which was what we orignally named the ML1 units). As was mentioned in the description above the "LINE" out jack (purple cord in this picture) is now mounted on the same side as those two "SPKR" outs (the green cord would be plugged into "SPKR2" on the new ML1). Also the little toggle switch is now moved to the coverplate on top and is also now a larger switch as well. This picture is just here to give you some idea of what the ML1 ~sorta-kinda~ looks like and where it needs to be mounted.
(below) This is what happens when you use some of the crappy tech info that seems to be spreading like a bad disease on the webzz about modding the M/L series spinets for line out ability.
There IS some solid info out there .. but why risk it? We've got you covered here with the Farndurk ML1 Output Adaptor .. safe, proven over years of use in actual live performances, designs backed with a limited Lifetime Warranty.
Remote Control setups:
(below) Here's an example of one type of "remote control setup" that is possible for use with the M3OA. It simply plugs in to the ML1 via the remote control jack marked "RX" on the ML1. The "Nuke Switch" toggle with the red safety cover is the "HI-LO" line level selctor switch, the smaller minitoggle is the "SPKR1-2" selector switch, the knob is the "TRIM" knob, and the footswitch is a MASTER KILL that kills the output of the organ with an LED to tell the owner the output was ON. This was a totally custom unit, so as you can see we can cover certain needs. If you have some whacky ideas run them past me, the worst thing that could happen is I'd say "no".
(below) Here's another remote switch setup. This is about as "micro" as I can get things. This is a SPKR-LINE selector in this case. It swaps between the "LINE" jack and the "SPKR" jack (~which~ "SPKR" jack depends entirely on how the "SPKR1-2" switch is set on the ML1). The customer wanted something very discrete and "safe" .. so this minitoggle is mounted in some custom machined aluminum channel that screws to the organ but is nearly completely hidden and quite out-of-the-way. I only needed to use one pole of the DPDT toggle to get that function done! Lucky me :)
The remote setups are limited by very little. There's many ways to exploit the "RX" jack on the rear of the ML1.
ML1 with BURN ... shmokin'!
I had another customer that had me build one of my BURN vintage tonewheel organ distortion units that the output adaptor wired in too. The BURN was then mounted/velcro'd on the RIGHT CHEEKBLOCK up there on the right side of the lower keyboard manual. In the picture below you can see the BURN tonewheel distortion unit mounted on the right cheekblock (it's just the method that one particular customer elected to go with). The ~purple~ cord comes up from the ML1's LINE OUT jack, goes in to the BURN, then the large ~black~ cord goes out to an amplifier system (in this case it was a Marshall Plexi amplifier with a 4x12 cab .. talk about LOUD!) The little funky black wire is the 9vdc input power for the BURN overdrive.
To install the Farndurk ML1 Output Adaptor in the Hammond M3-M100-L100 series spinets there is some very minor soldering to be done on only two wires that are very easily accessable. You won't have to solder on or near the speaker or the amplifier at all, it's a simple ~splice~ into the two "+ and -" wires that come from the stock Hammond M/L power amp and normally connect to the internal speaker. If you aren't able to get it done that way then I supply some high quality no-soldering WIRE NUTS to connect the ML1 to your Hammond spinet. The ML1 comes with all of the things necessary to install it in to your Hammond spinet. The ML1 comes standard with ..
- 60/40 solder to make the splice connections.
- Small Wire Nuts as an alternative to soldering. If you can't solder the connections or have someone solder them for you, these small wire nuts will also work. Just take your time, and do as good a job as you can. You only have to do this once so put your best effort into it no matter which method you elect to use. It's a five minute investment into decades of fun and great sounding organ tones.
- All mounting screws needed to mount the M3OA in the lower house of your Hammond M3 as well as any that may be needed for whatever type of remote volume control you may opt for. The M3OA's chassis is totally predrilled and you simply use the ML1 itself to trace the hole pattern with a pencil/pen/sumthin. Drill the holes, sweep up the lttle bit of sawdust (you really do not want fine wooden FLAMMABLE sawdust floatin' around near the hot amplifier, now would you?), then screw down the ML1 ... you're done!
- A drill bit to predrill the mounting screw holes needed for the ML1 chassis as well as any optional remote volume gizmo we build for you should you elect to go with that option. I predrill mounting holes in any chassis or gizmo-boxes that I provide, all you need to do is predrill a couple of holes in the wood and drive a couple-few provided screws. We're talking about five minutes of work here. You don't necessarily have to screw it down, but I HIGHLY recommend it. If the organ is going to sit in one place forever it might be ok to not mount the ML1 to your Hammond's lower house floor. But if the organ is going to be moved around at all, you really should mount the ML1 down. It just takes a couple of small drill holes and a couple of supplied screws ... it really is no big deal to get done. And the holes aren't drilled in anything that has a nice wood finish, they're drilled into the wood platform in the lower house right next to the stock Hammond power amp.
- Zip ties to help loom things up nice and neatly.
- Some black "Spiral-Loom" to add even more neatness to the installaion and keep any errant wires from getting near those hot vacuum tubes.
- Complete concise instructions with clear drawings are included for installing the ML1 into your Hammond spinet. Of course if you have any questions once you get to that point, simply write to me, or call me ... I'll patiently walk you right through whatever it is you need help with. I spent fifteen years training "noobs" at my industrial equipment repair shop that we owned and operated from 1994 to 2009 anytime we brought in a new-hire (until my disability forced us to sell that business and "ramp-up" Farndurk to our sole form of income). So I don't have any problems with assisting my customers with the installation of the ML1.
You will need to supply:
- A drill capable of chucking up a very small drillbit (NOTE: As of 040912 I'm working on obtaining drill bits that have a large hex-shank so that they'll fit in any drill but still have a small drillbit to drill the proper sized holes for the woodscrews). Most regular "$35 dollar drills" you get at the local Huge-Giant Home Destruction supply will work just fine. If you have good neighbors, perhaps you can borrow one, or maybe hit up that brother-in-law that has a garage full of tools. If you decide to buy a drill make sure to take the supplied drill bit with you. Some "cheapo" electric drills only go down to about 1/8th of an inch and won't be able to hold the little drillbit that comes with the ML1. The ML1 itself is predrilled, so you simply lay it on the board in the bottom of the spinet's lower house and trace the hole pattern on to the wood. Drill the holes, and mount the ML1 down. Done, forever. There is no need to ever dismount it if you ever need to get inside of the M3OA for some reason.
- A "sharpie", or a ball point pen, or a pencil (remember those?). You'll need one of these to mark any drillholes prior to predrilling the mounting holes for the ML1.
- A soldering pen, at least 25 watts. This is another Home Creepo item, Radio Shack also has them, as do most hardware stores.
- A "phillips" screwdriver, a #2 size works fine (#2 is the most common size found in most toolboxes).
- Some sort of wire cutters, or "dykes" .. scissors will do in a pinch.
- Patience, and about 20 minutes. Take your time ... a few minutes spent here yields very nice results.
Of course if you elect to use the wire nuts, and you decide to not mount the ML1 down (which, as I said, I DO NOT recommend) all you'll need is the wire cutters/dykes/scissors/fingernail clippers to cut and prep the wires to connect the ML1 to your Hammond M3.
So there's the ML1 Output Adaptor.
The Farndurk ML1 gives you access to the piles upon piles of guitar-type FX as well as the other pile of FX made for "clonewheel" organs out there .. such as:
The BOSS RT-20 rotary simulator which is one of the many rotary sims I've used with my own Hammonds and can absolutely recommend it! The "headphone out" is a VERY nice feature that allows very private use of your vintage Hammond. Something I wish I'd had when I was first learning to play, I would have not annoyed so many people! Haahaa! The RT-20 is probabaly my "first pick" of the sub-$300 rotary sims.
Another the super-nice one is the DLS RotoSIM rotary simulator. I don't have any personal experience with this unit myself but I've heard good things about it from others that I trust. Priced higher than the Boss RT-20, it offers some nice features.
Of course, the best type of rotary simulator is not a simulator at all, the Motion Sound Pro-3X rotary horn is probably THE BEST rotary gizmo I have EVER used myself that wasn't an actual Leslie. I used one of these for several years in a live gigging situation with both a Hammond XK-2 and a Kuzweil K2600S .. simply stellar! Built-in Shure SM57 mics that are setup in stereo, a nice tube-driven distortion circuit, full control over spin-up times. Just a great, highly road-worthy unit. The downside is it is 3x-to-4x more costly than the Boss RT-20 though. Keep in mind that the Pro-3X is an actual amplifier, it isn't just a stompbox like the others I've featured here. The Boss RT-20 and the DLS RotoSIM both require amplifiers to connect too so you can make sounds that people can hear. So, yea, it's like around $750 or so, but it is a REAL ROTARY and it is an actual amplifier as well. I think the value of the unit is obvious at this point. The Farn Approves!
With the ML1 you now have full access to devices like these and many many others as well.
Just to give you a basic idea of the cost, most of the ones I've built for customers thus far average out to be about $150 to $200 for an ML1 without the speaker eliminator option. So that kinda gives you a bit of an idea of what you're most likely going to spend on one. I'll have solid prices worked out soon.
FINISH OPTIONS and FINISH PRICING: Click here for info on finishes and knobs.
BUYING, WARRANTY, etc... Click here for info on HOW TO ORDER - Our LIFETIME WARRANTY - and RETURN POLICY
And what the heck is OUTLIFE anyway?
List price: $150.00.